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Eric Gratz
of Hanover NH tells of his iXperiences:
I've had my iX for a year now, and although it hasn't exactly been trouble free,
I haven't been disappointed. I bought my 88 iX with 106k on the "clock" from an
independent BMW shop last October after looking around for a couple of months. The
Cinnebarot showed that the car had experienced some collision damage in its past but it certainly
had the "feel good" factor the other cars had lacked.
I prepared it for a New Hampshire winter with Pirelli 190P's on 14 inch rims and never
lacked for traction through the spring. Strange electrical gremlins popped up occasionally
such as reluctant starting, intermittent stalling at speed, door locks which ignored my keys for a day, and a couple random-belching-odoriferous-check-engine-light
occurrences. However I followed the not-so-wise maxim, "don't fix anything that fixes
itself," since I could always manage to start the car by tapping on the idle control valve.
My luck ran out in the spring as my car started having wild idle oscillations and
stalling episodes of extended duration. The Motronic was replaced and the wild oscillations
ceased. The stalling persisted until the main (Motronic) relay was replaced. Coincidence or not, another 88 iX, which I considered buying earlier, had its Motronic
replaced shortly thereafter. This iX was off the road for quite some time, and I
was told by the shop owner that rebuilt Motronic units were on national backorder.
I have a Motronic adapter on order that should solveproblems with the ABS. Thanks
to the info regarding this fix, and the publication of the service bulletin. I just
replaced the exhaust, cursing the rusted-solid flange bolts all day. It was necessary
to cut the bolts between the muffler and the catalytic converter. One pipe on the converter
was flared, which didn't allow removal of the flange to drill out the bolts. A spit
flange from a local parts store saved the day. That will be the last exhaust I tackle from on my back.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Roburt Waldow
of Westfield, NJ tells of his new iX:
I really love our new iX. Although the paint could be in better condition, everything
else seems to be in good shape (after some repairs and a major tune up I had done)
I found an independent shop to do the work. It still cost a small fortune, but compared to what the dealership would've charged, it was quite a good deal. I had the head
gasket, cam seal, timing belt, tensioner pulley, and fan belts replaced. After taking
a look at the car, they told me the car was "virgin": The previous owner had never
had the car serviced, although the oil had at least been changed (Given the previous owner's
attention to the service interval indicator, I dread to think how seldom it may have
been done). At 50,000 miles, everything was original, including the fuel filter.
Despite this, the shop mechanics said the car looked like it was in great shape (although
it was a good thing someone like me got to it when I did).
I couldn't handle looking at the scuffed wheels, so I purchased 15" BBS RN wheels
and Dunlop SP8000 205/55 tires from the Tire Rack. I have to send two wheels back
because one had a chip on the lip of the rim and the wheel paint used on the other
rim was bumpy in some places. So far, the Tire Rack has been very good about taking care of
this. I should receive the replacement wheels and tires early next week. I can't
wait to try the iX out with proper rubber. I plan to use the stock wheels with the
Pirelli 210 tires during the winter. I know that the mesh is not well suited for the snow and
ice, but I'll just have to deal with it. At least I won't worry too much about the
wheels since they are scraped up anyway.
I also had a DINAN chip and K&N canister air filter installed. I like to think it
made a noticeable difference in performance, although I ran no tests to confirm this.
The K&N air filter does make it sound great though.
Oh, by the way, I contacted John Walsh (of Oktoberfest '95 Zymol fame) re: the small
rust spots all over the car. He asked me where I bought the car. After telling him
I purchased the car in Pittsburgh, PA, he told me (and later confirmed) that the
spots were actually deposits of "railhead" dust. Apparently, where there are a lot of trains
(e.g. Pittsburgh), the air is filled with tiny iron flakes (caused by the friction
generated when trains stop) that ultimately come to rest on top of things like hoods,
roofs and trunks. He explained that these deposits (having accumulated over 5 years)
would not come off with HD-Cleanse, but that he would give it a try with a "clay"
he uses to remove paint over spray. He came down from his home in Connecticut (over
3 hours away) and did an exterior detail using Zymol Atlantique glaze (Wow! What a difference
it made).
Virtually all of the rust spots came off! The one problem with the detail, however,
is that it really showed how poor the paint condition was. At ten feet away, the
iX looks superb. At five feet away, it still looks super. Up close, however, it becomes
quite obvious this paint is not concours material. There are several small chips (each
apparently touched up with an airbrush that covered an area far larger than the actual
chip) and re the repaint on the right side (apparently the prior owner sideswiped
something) looks horrendous. I decided to put off painting anything till next summer,
but I am seriously considering doing a full paint job.
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Paul Reitz
of Palmyra, PA, posted this on the BMW-digest on the internet in response to some
questions asked about the iX and winter driving:
First, just to let you know my bias, I own a '91 iX along with several other older
Bimmers. Bought it 2/94, mainly for my wife, but her needs get subordinated when
the weather gets really bad. Second, the traction and *poise* of this car in bad
weather is nothing short of incredible. The AWD aids both delivery of power and balance, because
of engine braking on all four wheels when getting off the gas. ABS adds to its poise.
It's truly *difficult* to get this car out of control.
The combination of these characteristics is such that, in weather where our 528e (with
50 kg weight in trunk) is right at the scary lower limit of its ability to be driven,
the iX feels like you're driving in light rain.
Limitations: stopping distance, which is just physics, and steering (directional)
control. About the only thing that can improve braking in bad weather on any vehicle
is to use good tires. Fortunately, a set of inexpensive steel wheels and microcellular
rubber snow tires work very well in the winter - on dry roads, snow and ice - such
that studs become an unnecessary compromise for street driving. The steering limitation
I "ixperienced" is that the 37/63 nominal front/rear torque split doesn't provide
quite enough pull for best steering directionality when the tires are riding on ice
or ice-covered snow unless the torque split gets modified by rear wheel slippage.
Translated, this
means that you have to get on the gas reasonably hard to get the front end to go where
you're pointing the wheels, on some surfaces.
Although I have not personally tried ASC+T, I'm sure it improves the utility of RWD
vehicles but it's not as effective as AWD. I've had to push a neighbor with a 525i
with ASC+T in snow that, with the 'iX (had we had it at the time) would have been
no problem. BMW discontinued it when the E36 chassis debuted here in model year '92. Perhaps
it was the cost or other compromises of designing AWD into the new chassis; there
are a number of important differences between the iX and the other E30s that escape
the eye.
FWIW, when I was in Davos Switzerland this summer (a mountain resort) the majority
of BMWs were E30 'iX's. It's particularly telling, given Europe's tendency toward
late model vehicles, that I didn't see a single 5-er iX despite the upscale locale.
A guy at the local BMW garage said it's "too
expensive". I personally think BMW lost an opportunity here, and ceded the market
to Audi and Subaru.
As for cost, it appears that the 'iX still commands maybe a $2-3k premium over other
E30s; not quite as much as the 'iC. There are still good, low mileage 'iX's available.
'88s were loaded - Recaros, electric windows & sunroof, but 2 door only; '89s were more basic; '91s, at least, were again
loaded - heated leather seats & mirrors, electric everything, driver's side airbag.
I needed 4 doors and liked the idea of the airbag (it may also have been on the
'90s). iX's are sufficiently rare around central PA that when a clean, 35k mile
4 door stick with 1 yr factory warranty remaining
popped up at just the right time, I took it for $18.5k.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Dave Ritter of Marquette, MI reminds us to check our head bolts:
In two previous issues of the newsletter you have had writeups about the problems
the old (89 and 88) head bolts. One of the local IX's in Marquette has had major
damage due to these old bolts. It seems that the top hex head separated and found
its way between the camshaft lobe and the head. This resulted in a hole in the coolant passage,
a real mess. A few of us found these old bolts in our engines and are making plans
for immediate replacement before we too are victims.
(Note: some cars produced before April '89 had the old style hex head bolts that are
prone to failure rather than the newer torx-stlye bolts. (See Tips & Tidbits in
issue 3 of the iXchange).
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Greg Bergey of Baltimore, MD wrote to BMW NA to ask how many iX's were sold in the US and found:
Approximately 5600 iX's were sold from 1988 through 1991. This four year run compares with 6447 Tii's over three years and about 2000-2500 per year of the U.S. 6 series. While the M series were lower production models of a series, the iX is still an uncommon variant. Of course I'd prefer that they were still in production. (Imagine as AWD E36 M3!)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Tony Miele
of Deerfield, WI writes:
I purchased our iX last November from Patrick BMW in Schaumburg, IL. The car had one
owner, who bought it and had it serviced (by the book) at Patrick BMW. The car is
clean inside and out. It just turned 100K the day I picked it up. It has a little
rust on the inside bottoms of the front doors. It was noted on the body inspections for the
two previous years. I just had the BMW rep look at it last week and BMW is going
to pay $300 to clean this up.
Before reading your newsletters, I purchased 4 Pirelli W190 tires in the 205-55-15
size and mounted them on the stock wheels. While now I wish I bought steel wheels
and the 14" tires, the iX handled great in the snow. It drove straight and true in
deep and not so deep snow.
We traded in a 1989 Audi 90 Quattro last winter on a 1994 325is with AST. While this
car really surprised me how well it drove in the snow, I did miss the little extra
security of all-wheel-drive. Last October my wife and I drove a 1990 90 Quattro,
and a 1991 ix. We both like the iX over the Quattro. After 3 months and 7500 miles, we both
think the ix handles winter weather better than the Quattro ever did. We also own
a Jeep Grand Cherokee with Quadra-Trac and still prefer to drive the iX in the bad
weather.
Looking through the service records at the dealer, I did see service repairs for windows
lifts not working, and leaking transfer seals. The dealer put in new seals again,
as part of the my purchase deal.
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Paul Fishbein
of Chicago, IL writes of his first iXperience:
I have had lower back surgery and found the sport seats in my 1988 325iX to have great
holding ability in the comers but the lumbar support of the seats were excessive
and very uncomfortable for me. I discovered that after removing the back cover of
the seat that the lumbar section can be adjusted by removing the green multi "S" curve spring
from the seat. This did not effect the overall support of the seat, but did minimize
the excessive curve of the lumbar support. Since this change the seat is now incredibly comfortable and supportive on long trips.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Stephen Gardos
of Ardsley, NY tells of his iX and would like some help from other Registry members:
I am the original owner of a 1988 Red iX with over 143K miles. The car has been a
near perfect car offering all around features that I can't replace (though I recently
added a M3 because I am sick of waiting for the elusive 5 series ix). I can go on
and on about the numerous snowstorms driving in Vermont that the car has gotten me through.
I shouldn't admit how great I feel while passing sliding Blazers and Broncos as
they wonder how in the world a BMW can get up that hill.
Unfortunately the car is only near perfect. About 2 years ago I started to get an
intermittent vibration that would have the whole car shaking pretty good for up to
a minute or so. As mysteriously as the vibration started it would disappear. Sometimes
I can go for months without a sign of the demon and just as strangely it will come back
and haunt me for several weeks. The problem does not appear to be speed or weather
related, though it always disappears if I come to a stop and then start up again
(this can be difficult to do at 60 MPH). All the normal possibilities have been checked out
by "expert" BMW mechanics; front end, tires, brakes, etc. The conclusion is that
it is probably the transfer case but I am unwilling to spend $2500 for a "possible"
fix.
I have learned to live with the demon as it is not getting any worse but I would love
a solution. I wonder if any other iX owners have had a similar problem or perhaps
can recommend a good mechanic familiar with the iX in the NY metro area.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Nick Yotz
of Enumclaw, WA shares another iXperience with us:
You may recall that I called you, back in August, about replacing the front shocks
on our iX, the right front of which had totally failed. What happened was that I
did read your write up in the Registry as well as that in the Chilton manual. However,
the press of work and nearness of the departure for our month in Germany required me
to send the car to the only facility in Seattle to be trusted (Strictly BMW Independent
Svc. Inc.) and that was fortunate that I did. The retaining hubs for the shock tubes
(both sides) were totally rusted to the point of requiring them to be chiseled out
and off. A much bigger/harder job that I would have been prepared for in my limited
time. Whether this is a generic problem or not neither I nor the shop knows as this
was their first time to do the job on an iX. The original plan was to use Boge's but
none to fit could be found so Bilsteins were used and seem quite satisfactory. The
total cost was $540 plus tax--$230 less than quoted by two local dealers just out
of my own curiosity for comparison. Better work--less cost.
Just as a note of interest, during our month in Germany I saw exactly one iX, one
6er, two 8ers, one beautifully restored 1602, one Z1, and almost no older style (1980's)
7 series. I suspect that the older (ie., cheaper) cars have all gone to Eastern
Europe now. The Z1 driver, a friend of a friend tells me that used ones are quite inexpensive
on the used market. I would bring one home in a minute if I could! (Nick recommends making prior arrangements for a rental car with Budget before making
any travel to the Continent.)
On another subject: I was led "down the garden path" by an article in the Roundel --Technical Correspondence,
Feb '91 about "air temp probe problems. The clock/temp indicator, when the problem
first started gave wildly swinging outside temperature readings, chiming every time it went below 36F. Eventually it always read -22F but the chime went off every
time the ignition was turned on. Asking the maddening device for the time didn't
help as the temp reading returned (to -22F along with the chime) immediately. According
to the article, a classic case of failed temp probe, confirmed both by the test suggested
in the article, a confirming phone call to Ken Inn, the Rounde
l parts guru ("they fail ALL the time."), and a call to Bavarian Auto Parts. About
$80. BUT with the new temp probe there was no change to the problem! I told my
self that we REALLY don't NEED a temp reading but the device still went to -22 and
chimed with the new probe disconnected entirely and continued the wild fluctuations and chiming
every 3 or 4 minutes. Very aggravating.
But my wife did want her clock, if not the temp reading; but without all those chimes
all the time. After actually taking the clock apart and finding nothing apparently
wrong I got a guaranteed used one for $75, half of the dealer's price for a new one.
Problem solved. Moral of the story--the temp probes may fail often but it is just
as likely to be the 6 button clock mechanism itself. My original temp probe is just
fine, despite the test outlined in the Roundel
article and I'm out the $80 for the newer one. The used clock came from "Bavarian
Auto Recycling" (a Roundel
advertiser) at 1-800-726-4269. Free shipping for BMW CCA members and same day shipping--it
was excellent service.
Now that the clock/temp problem is solved, I've got to thinking that it probably doesn't
really use all those wires (about 10, I think) in the wiring bundle. Does anyone
know if the wiring bundle to the 'regular' clock also contains all the wiring connections needed for the "On-board Computer" and is it possible to simply install one for
the other and have the computer work as it should? Incidentally, Bob Mitchell's
write up is right on. The wiring bundle is nearly impossibly short. I cut a wire
tie in order to get another tiny bit of maneuvering room to disassemble the wiring connector
itself during my diagnosing-the-problem exercise.
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Thanks to
Tim Parker
of Wtillwater, MN for the following info and the great photo:
Traveling back from Chicago on interstate 94 mid-summer the traffic stopped for about
an hour to clear a crashed truck which blocked both lanes (some crash, unfortunately,
with two truck drivers crashed I subsequently learned): I took this photo of my '88
iX to pass the time. My camera is a Nikon T35, a tiny, titanium bodied "instant" 3Smm
but with the world's best lens. For what that's worth!
Debbie McGuinness
of Stevensville, MT thanks her iX for saving her life as you will appreciate in
the following article. And she would like some suggestions from those in the Registry
who are familiar with SCCA autocross rules:
I think if was fate that brought this car and me together. Her in Montana, I drive
70 miles a day for work and I needed a good reliable 4WD. Nothing seemed to appeal
to us -- no airbag, no ABS, not sporty enough, too small -- until we came across
the '91 iX. At first we joked about it, but one drive and ohhhhhhh!. It's the first BMW
we've ever driven and we're sold. No Chris dreams of his own iX (...or maybe an
M3, sigh.)
But fate came three weeks later when this car saved my life! I was traveling on a
slick overpass in Idaho when the semi I had begun to pass swerved unexpectedly into
my lane. I owe it to this car that I did not slide right under that trailer, for
I know that's what my previous car would have done. Unfortunately the ford truck following
me was not able to stop as quickly and encountered the rear end of my iX. Although
the damages were expensive, I was completely uninjured and the car still drives perfectly.
Thus began our love affair. This is the most incredible car on slick roads we have
ever driven. It far outperforms our old Subaru and Pathfinder! And for the amount
of miles we have poured on, repairs have been minimal.
This summer we began participating in the local SCCA Autocross which has been a ball!
At the same time we are concerned about wear and tear on the car. Any info regarding
precautions, risk areas, possible upgrades would be appreciated. What changes can
be made to help the car handle more neutrally without
moving out of the stock class? What changes are best to move into the prepared
classes? Would a new performance chip improve the power band or be detrimental to
the engine? Can we use 225x50 R15 tires for autocrossing?
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