Michael Sand
of Corning, NY shares the following:
Am I the high miler of the registry? 170,000 and counting! Not, of course, without
some incident and lots of fun. I have found that the iX is able to do a great variety
of tasks with aplomb and finesse.
I have been doing battle with a hard starting problem which doesn't generate any fault
codes (thanks again, Gordon) on the Motronic. I have done plugs, cap, rotor, K&N
filter, fuel filter, etc.. I did find a vacuum leak from a bad clamp on the hose
going to the evap purge valve. That did improve things but I am still not satisfied with
the warm starting characteristics and the idle oscillations immediately after lifting
off the throttle. Still don't know what's up....I think the engineer that decided
to make the front ball joints an integral part of the control arm must previously have
had a rewarding career in military purchasing. $250.00??? I have found that the
boot on the driver side is split. The joint is still tight and good, so now what
do I do? I am told that the boot is not a separate part for sale. Anyone know differently?
(BMP - see Feb letter) I tried the headlight covers from Bavarian Auto Service.
What a crock. They are designed to fit under the trim rings around the headlights.
Not on mine they don't! The ring would only fit on about halfway and then slide back
off because of the various lubricants I used to get them there in the first place.
Imparts has some now that fit over both lights and appear to use magic to hold
themselves in place. REALLY worth a try.
I built an enclosure for a 10" subwoofer in the trunk. I decided to sacrifice some
room and apply a weight penalty (not too much, maybe 20-30 pounds, I used 3/4" plywood
not particle board) in the interest of sonic pleasure. It fits under the rear deck
exactly and is angled to mate up to the rear of the back seat. The single Rockford
Punch points through the ski bag hole and sounds great. I cut some thick foam to
act as a gasket around the driver to prevent trunk noises from entering the cabin.
If I need the room it is easily removed and unplugged. I still can't believe the incredible
bass one 10" woofer can provide. Organ music is actually something I can hear (and
feel) in the car now! 300+ watts of Alpine power going to this woofer helps too...
If anyone is interested I can send measurements etc. of the box.
I have joined the SCCA and have run a number of autocrosses last summer. I am hooked.
These have not been my first but they are great in the way the courses are laid
out and the attention paid to keeping things fun and not too terribly serious. I
have seen a lot of interest in the iX and am always being asked questions about it. It
would seem that our cars have achieved what can only be described as mystique. While
a ^&$@ Miata has been consistently taking first in my class (C) I have received
compliments from its veteran driver and that with Comp T/A R1's like his (vs.my D40M2's)
I would be taking first instead of seconds and thirds. I have been running front
pressures around 50 psi and rear around 30-35 and have found that this changes drastically
+/- 5 psi or more depending on temp/sun/rain and how worn the D40's are. Keep those
fronts pumped up though, as I ran one run in the high 30's and rolled onto the sidewalls
while understeering badly (even with all the mods.) It is still 4wd after all...
The chalk on the tire shoulders helps a lot to identify such a condition. In the
spring of each year my region hosts a school at a small road racing kart track in
Greene, NY which is perfectly suited to the numerous events held there. Kudos to
the BMW dealer/owner of this track for keeping it open for such events. It can be quite challenging...I
recommend to anyone thinking about trying autocrossing that they attend such a school.
We practice launching (without lunching anything), braking and various turns and slalom. It is a good way to get the heeby-jeebies out of you and to refamiliarize
yourself with your trusty steed.
I did a compression check at 168,000 miles. Between 151 psi and 155 psi. According
to my manual, acceptable is 145-156. I guess there is a mile or two left in the
engine, eh?
Larry Gold
of Rutland, VT tells of his Dinan Chip:
I put the Dinan chip in my '88 with ( last week, so I will share some experience.
The extraction, and installation went without a hitch, as you had suggested a small
screwdriver would help someone without the kind of experience I have,(electronics
tech on fighters for USAF) but I found the entire operation much of a none event.Until of
course I go out to start the car. Whamo, holy crow, the thing not only cranks right
up, but sounds incredibly smoother immediately. I mean, sounds and feels like having
done a long awaited plug change, carb and point tune on an old Chevy. What a difference.
Out for a drive and no question, it pulls better and longer from 3500 right through
5500 rpm. I don't take it much past that often, because it starts to sound a little
tight. I have not had much of a chance to check mileage yet, but so far there doesn't
seem to be much of a change. I run Ultra 94, on a regular basis, which might explain
the lack of ping I was kind of expecting. I just don't know, thought it would need
higher octane, but then again, maybe the new chip just manages things a lot better. Any
way, glad I did it, and am looking forward to putting in the new K&N air filter.
Enjoying the iXchange very much. My 88 just hit 110,000, and is starting to show
a couple of rust spots at the joints under the doors. Any hints? I'm sure the sooner I take care
of them the better. Hey, I was looking through the notes you sent about iX history,
and found an inconsistency. My 88(10/87 manufacture date) has color coded bumpers.
I mean the wrap around the chrome, and right back to the body front and rear. I have yet
to see another white one like it.
-------------------------------------
Here's a note from
Dave Ravetti
of Pittsburgh, PA
On March 6, 1996, I celebrated one year of driving my iX. I have a 1990 diamond black/black
leather, manual trans., stock (so far) iX with 76,000
miles. My previous car was a 1980 Datsun 210 (hand-me-down from my older brother)
which I had driven since getting my first license 11 years ago. Obviously, driving
a BMW has been a big change, and I've become a Bimmer fanatic!
My garage is in the back of my house, with a steep, long, narrow driveway between
two houses (up, level, then down to the back). Since I never shoveled or salted
the driveway, I got to test the iX's Winter abilities daily. My biggest repair so
far has been replacing a burned-out low beam. The only major expense was for Winter wheels and
tires (the car came with 15" factory alloys and Pirelli P600 205/55s). For Winter,
I bought 14" steel wheels and Dunlop Winter Sport SP 195/65s from the Tire Rack.
Not having driven the car with any other tires, I can't compare the performance of the
Dunlops, but I never slid or got stuck .
I've changed the oil (Mobil 1 10W30) every 3-4K miles and the car drinks an extra
quart of oil every 1,000 miles.
In the first year of driving, I put on 13,000 miles - about 4,000 highway and 9,000
city. My gas mileage (3-tank averages) ranged from 15.9 mpg to 22.4 mpg with an
average of 18.6 mpg.
As an "anniversary gift", I'm buying Redline MTL, a wheel center cap to replace a
stolen one, and a Zymol wax kit. Since Pittsburgh roads consist of 70% asphalt (or
cobblestone) and 30% potholes, an alignment is probably in the near future, as well.
While the summer wheels (on our '90 Canadian iX) remain OEM basketweaves (which I
continue to like the looks of), our winter wheels are ROH, which my dealer (Paul
Wright, Contact Patch in Toronto, good head) says are from Australian. They're 15"x&'
7-spoke, silver painted (not clear-coated) alloy. The original BMW-supplied all-seasons
ride on them: Euro Uniroyal 340, 205x15. The reason for going painted was easier
repairability, although after 2 Toronto winters, they haven't needed any work. They
were about twice as much as plain steel, about US$140 each. I haven't seen them advertised
anywhere, so I don't know if they're available south of the border. We prefer the
7-spoke look to the more aggressive, more popular 5-spoke.
- More info from
Larry Gold
, Rutland VT:
Bought the car (an '88 with 100,000 mi.) in July of 93, with Pirelli 190 snows all
around on the original wheels, and a set of ACT LS, 7.5Jx15 wheels, with some just
about worn out Yoko intermediates. Well, the noise from them was very loud, but they
held like no tomorrow. I replaced the Yokos with some Goodrich H-rated Euro Radial T/A
225-50/15's. They didn't seem to stick as well, no surprise, but they have some distinct
advantages. One, I'm going to get 40,000 plus miles out of them, they ride very,
very nice, work good in the rain, and cost $431.00 mounted and balanced. I understand
that they are not what you want for autocross, but I don't. I checked into new Yoko's,
and was told to expect 15 to 20,000 miles tops, and I couldn't afford it. I'll tell
you something else, out on the roads here in Vermont, under normal high-spirited, sometimes
close to the edge driving, the car itself is well enough balanced, I have never come
close to breaking it loose, other than some really good drifting, which I enjoy very much. And I pass 500 cars on the highway, for every one that passes me. Clearance
has not been a problem at all, and I figure everyone knows that you have to keep
exactly the same rolling radius on all four corners. The Pirellis have been great,
by the way, here in Vermont in the winter, and they don't sound much like most snows. They
are really quiet, but I am now shopping for the replacements due to wear. I understand
they have a new snow, the 210. Anyone have any input on them.
- From
Albert Wimmer
of South Bend, IN:
I too had had it with the stock BBS wheels during the winter months. It is difficult
enough to keep them clean even during the warmer season, but any amount of ice or
packing snow can make them behave like bucking broncos. So, for the past two winters
I have been using 15x7 Borbet Type C wheels with Pirelli Winter 210P. It is almost a pleasure
to keep them clean. I bought them from the trusted Tire Rack in South Bend, IN. Originally,
I was going to get Ronal R-15 alloys which the Tire Rack had offered as a package at a very attractive price, however, the front wheels wouldn't turn. So what
did those wonderful people at Tire Rack do? Without blinking an eye, they exchanged
the Ronal wheels and sold me the Borbet Type C for the same price. I have been quite
happy with my choice and feel so smug when driving becomes difficult during our harsh
Northern Indiana winters.
The people at Tire Rack talked me into replacing my worn Pirelli 600's with Bridgestone
Turanza 205/55VR15 tires at a price I couldn't refuse (99 + 5 per tire for mounting
and balancing). Though these are not all-season tires I am confident that they will
do the job. Now (Gordon), don't feel slighted because I did not select any of your
choices. Your advice was greatly appreciated though. I was going to buy Dunlop D40M2's
but the sales associate at the TR had reservations about its tread life, and since
I drive 100+ a day that was definitely a consideration.
The care and feeding of the leather and the vinyl components of your automotive interior
are two very different processes. If you are using one product on both, that is somewhat
like using gasoline as a lubricant. It will work, but not for long. I will cover the care and feeding of leather and vinyl separately.
Leather having once been used to keep the insides of a cow from falling out was designed
to pass moisture through tiny pores. These tiny pores absorb human perspiration and
as the water evaporates, salts contained therein remain to absorb the essential oils in the leather. This accumulation of salts and other grunge should be cleaned from
the leather about twice a year (more often if the seats get more than their fair
share of your leftover sweat). The loss of oils within the leather is the first step
to hardening, cracking and shrinkage. Leather dashes are very prone to hardening and shrinking.
Your dash is subjected to the destructive UV rays and heat concentrated by the windshield.
The leather (or vinyl) of your dash rests upon a metal backing that acts like a frying pan. This "frying" drives the essential oils from the leather causing
premature shrinkage, cracking and hardening. Thus a dash should be treated more often
than the seats or door panels.
Cleaning leather may be accomplished by using a mild soap and water, or a specifically
designed leather cleaner. Of all the products I have tried, I still like Lexol pH
Cleaner. It is pH balanced, and gentle. All cleaners will rehydrate the leftover
salts and grime and wash them from the leather fibers. Use only leather products on leather,
do not use vinyl cleaners as these products tend to be much harsher and may not be
that beneficial to the leather. Any cleaner should be rinsed thoroughly from the
leather. I have tried spraying off with a hose, but that just seemed to fill the car with
soapy water (a hole drilled in the floor was needed to drain it out - just kidding).
I went back to using a damp cloth and repeatedly wiping down the leather. Once the
leather is clean, a conditioner should be used to restore lost oils and emollients. There
are several conditioners on the market. Two of my favorites over the years are
Lexol Conditioner
and
Tony Nancy Leather Conditioner
. These two seem to be the most easily absorbed into the leather fibers and tend to
leave a relatively less "greasy" finish than any of the other products I have tried.
Another good product is
Connoly Hide Food
.
This product is made from rendered animal parts and will turn rancid in about two
years. This and the distinctive "cow" smell removes it from my top two list (I spent
too much time milking the south end of a north pointing cow, so am not a fan of cow
smells).
Zymol
makes a product called
"Leather Treat"
. It does not, in my humble opinion, do any better job than the much less expensive
Lexol
or
Tony Nancy
products. Again, do not use a vinyl product as a conditioner on leather and above
all try to avoid silicone based products. The silicone oil will dissolve out the
leather's natural oils and tend make the leather sticky.
Silicone
has a very high electrostatic attraction, so will invite every dust particle within
miles to set up camp in your interior. Apply the conditioner to a soft cloth and
work into the leather, allow to be absorbed into the fibers and then buff off the
excess. You may condition the leather as often as you wish. The leather will tell you if you
apply too much or apply to often. The leather fibers will just not absorb the excess.
If your leather has hardened or needs some intensive softening, there is a really
nifty product called
"Surflex Leather Softener"
. This product is made from natural and synthetic oils that restore the natural softness
to neglected leather. Clean the leather and then apply a liberal coat of Softener.
Allow to penetrate the leather for about 24 hours. Wipe off the excess. If it needs
an additional application, repeat the above. For really bad areas, cover with plastic
and allow to sit for a few days. Once the leather is sufficiently softened, allow
to "cure" for another 24 hours and buff off any excess. You are done. I jokingly
say this product will turn a dog's rawhide chew into a kid glove. I have had some luck with
leather dashes with this method. Once the leather has softened, I have been able
to gently tuck it back under the edges of the trim and windshield clips. This is
a lot cheaper than a new dash and may be worth a try before spending a ton of money.
If your leather or vinyl has scuff marks, scratches or areas that the surface color
had been removed, you may refinish it yourself The key is another Suflex product.
The
Suflex Colorant & Finish for Flexible Surfaces
may be matched to the exact color required. Any interior leather or vinyl surface
may be refinished. It is not recommended to spot finish any area. If your seat bolsters
have belt loop scuff marks, you should refinish the entire front of the seat. I usually do from welting to welting. This provides a visual break that does not make the
non refinished areas appear quite as shabby. But then why not do the whole seat,
dash, or door panel? Start by cleaning the area(s) to be refinished with a suitable
Organic Solvent. I prefer
Wurth Citrus Degreaser
or
P21S Total Auto Wash
. Prior to usage, test all solvents on an area that does not show. I use the excess
on the underside of the seat to test colorfastness of the finish. Spray the solvent
on a soft lint free cloth, and then wipe down the surface(s). Repeat after a few
minutes. Rinse with a damp cloth and allow to dry thoroughly (at least 24 hours). The manufacturer
of Surflex says to strip the old finish off using lacquer thinner, commercial paint
remover or
C-P Stripper
. I don't, because most interiors are not in that bad a shape and I have never found
it necessary (They also recommend lightly sanding the area prior to usage, I don't
do that either - no guts). Mix the Surflex completely and use it like a wood stain.
I use a small piece of lint free cloth and work the Surflex into the leather or vinyl
just as if I were staining wood. Once the desired color of finish is achieved, allow
to dry undisturbed for at least 24 hours.
I allow the surface to "harden off" for about 2 weeks before applying any conditioners
to leather or vinyl protectants to vinyl parts. I have not had a lot of luck refinishing
a dark leather or vinyl a lighter color. The old color tends to show through in small "cracks" and the whole panel seems to be "muddy". Maybe if you strip off all
the old finish, it would look better. Someday, I will get an old seat and give it
a try. The
Surflex Black Colorant
works great on black bumpers, black spoilers or black rubber/vinyl trim that has
been scratched or scuffed. Clean the entire part thoroughly with
Wurth Citrus Degreaser
, rinse and dry thoroughly. Stain the area with the Colorant and allow to dry. It will
look like new. After about 3 weeks hardening off, coat with a protective coating
of
Mequiar #42 Rubber Treatment or Black Again
.
Small cuts, cracks or holes in leather may be partially repaired using another Surflex
product called Flex-Fill. This is a semi-flexible cosmetic filling material. You
use it like a spackle compound. It will take the
Surflex
colorant similar to leather or vinyl. I have been able to repair several damaged
areas and hide them so they are not visible to the casual observer. Will it make
a three inch crack in your dash look like new? No, but it may help hide it so that
it isn't quite so obvious. I have found that forcing
Flex-Fill
under the repaired area and forming an inverted T patch works best. Once the patch
is dry, sand lightly to blend in with the leather or vinyl. Clean the area thoroughly
and refinish with the
Surflex Colorant
. This is a learned skill, so you should practice on a test piece of leather or vinyl.
Perfect your techniques before you tackle your expensive interior.
Vinyl is the carefully prepared hydes of virgin pampered Arctic Naugas. Many Naugas
must die to furnish enough material for just one interior panel.
The dash, door panels, seat backs, and numerous other interior/exterior trim pieces
are usually vinyl. Vinyl may be viewed as raw semi-liquid vinyls that are held in
place by a solid vinyl "skin" (this description is for illustration only and not
a Ph.D. chemical dissertation ). The dash and other vinyl parts of your car are constantly
bombarded by UV that breaks down the molecules of the skin, allowing the raw vinyls
to escape (off-gassing). These free vinyls then may deposit themselves on the glass,
forming a haze that is difficult to remove. If you have such a haze, it is probably your
dash that has decided to pick up stakes and migrate. Silicone based vinyl dressing
products do not usually contain UV protectants, and the silicone may act as a magnifying
glass, intensifying the UV degradation. Silicone oil may also dissolve the essential
oils in the vinyl skin, hastening the premature formation of cracks in the vinyl
skin. A quality vinyl protectant will contain a UV protectant and essential oils
to replace lost oils from the vinyl. These protectants are expensive, so the K-Mart specials
may do more harm than good.
Silicone
also has very strong electrostatic attraction which may be considered beneficial
in that it will tend to stay where it is placed, but will also attract every dust
particle in the surrounding three counties.
Any vinyl protectant should be applied to a soft cloth and worked into the surface.
After a few moments of allowing it to work into the surface, buff off the excess.
The dash should be treated more often than any other area, as it is subject to the
most severe attack by UV and heat .
My personal favorite vinyl protectant is
Lexol Vinyex Spray
. This in my humble opinion has it all. A very strong UV protectant, essential oils,
anti-static (helps keep dust off) and a soft patina finish.
Harly Polyguard
- This used to be my favorite, till I lost my heart to
Vinylex
. Leaves a touch more shine to the finish than
Vinylex
.
Somethin' Else
- This is the sister to
Black Again
. Has all the right ingredients and people who love it are died in the wool. I prefer
the
Vinylex
, but that only a subjective opinion. It leaves a "new car" smell. I think that is
why it is not my favorite. I am not a fan of artificial smells.
Harly Interior Magic
- An old standby that leaves a lemon scent. Some people love it. I don't think a
car should smell like lemons, but that's my opinion and I could be wrong.
Zymol Vinyl
- Another tropical oil product. Leaves a pina colada smell. Diehards will defend
this product to the death. I just think it is to much $.
Meguiar #40
- A great product that cleans and protects. Does not leave a slippery finish.
Meguiar #39
- A very strong cleaner. This should be used carefully and very infrequently. It
will clean just about anything out of vinyl. Must be followed by
#40
or other vinyl protectant. A great cleaner for plastic Targa tops.
Tony Nancy Rubber/Vinyl Cleaner
- I don't recommend use on the inside. The smell is a bit much for me (reminds me
of dead rats).
Some people do and swear by it.
Sonax Cockpit Spray
- This is a German product that is designed for German vinyl. Does a great job, but
leaves a little more shine to the surface than I care for. There are a gaggle of
users who love it.
Wurth Cockpit Spray
- ditto above. Wurth people don't like Sonax and vice versa.
Formula 303
- This leaves an
Armour All
type of high gloss shine to the vinyl. I personally don't like this type of finish.
Some people do, so feel comfortable using it. All of the above products do not contain
silicone.
I hope that the above has shed some light on the subject leather and vinyl care. If
there are any questions, please do not hesitate to call or write.
If you can't find the products locally, I stock all of them except the
Formula 303
and would be glad to send a product description/price package by mail.
Contributed by Larry Reynolds
Car Care Specialties, Inc.
Post Office Box 535 Saddle Brook, NJ 07663-0535
Phone: (201) 796-8300 , Fax: (201) 791-9743
E-mail: carcaresp@aol.com
