I had assumed (incorrectly) that I would need to add a flex agent to the spray paint, but the paint shop, after looking at the iX bumpers, assured and convinced me that the plastic pieces were not flexiblein the sense of trim on some newer autos and that a flex agent was not necessary. I ended up buying the following items:
- 1 spray can of standard sandable gray primer
- 1 qt. DUPONT Prep-Sol Solvent to remove wax, etc.
- 1 spray can of SEM Sand Free to promote adhesion on plastic and minimize sanding
- 1 qt. DUPONT Centari Acrylic Enamel (in Alpine White, Code: 146, Year: 80, K7941A for my car.
- 1 qt. DUPONT 8034 S Acrylic Enamel Reducer for Overall 55 deg.-65 deg.(also available for other ambient air temps.) for thinning: 2 parts paint, 1 part reducer for spraying (and clean up)
- 1 qt. SEM Clear Water Borne No Lift Chip-Guard for gravel and corrosion protection for lower body panels.
Total cost of materials was about $100, but this will vary depending on where the pant is purchased. Of course, I did not use even half of the material so it is available for future touch ups.
Removing the bumper trim pieces is straight forward using 8mm and 10mm sockets and wrenches. You’ll have to remove the carpeting in the trunk and the taillight covers in the trunk and you’ll have to remove a few nuts and bolts in the wheel wells. There are a couple of nuts behind the side marker lights in the bumper trim pieces. These lights can be removed by carefully prying them out with a large screwdriver placed at the rear of each light and pushing forward and out. If the lights have been inserted in the opposite direction, you may need to pry from the front. Don’t force anything. They should come out pretty easily if you are working at the correct end. The rear bumper does not have to be removed, but the front one will have to be removed to gain access to all the nuts and bolts holding the trim pieces. This is an easy job -- 2 bolts requiring a 10mm Allen wrench, 60 ft-lb to install. Disconnect the wiring to the side marker lights and the turn signal lights as you remove the light assemblies and the bumper. I also decided to paint the door handles, round trim ring around the door lock cylinders and the black air inlets under the windshield next to the wipers.
After the trim pieces have been removed, washed and scrubbed, they should be sanded first to remove any rough or skuff marks. Then they should be saturated with the Prep-Sol wax remover and wiped dry to remove the wax. If necessary, repeat the process of sanding and removng the wax with Prep-Sol. The objective is to remove all wax that may work into the sanding marks and decrease adhesion of the primer and paint. After removing wax, position the parts in an area where they can be sprayed. Then spray with the Sand Free and while still tacky, spray with the primer. After the primer is dry, spray at least two coats with the thinned enamel. Allow to dry overnight and then use the water based No Lift Chip-Guard, using a lower (20psi) air pressure than normal as directed on the can.
The Clear Water Borne Chip-Guard provides a textured, mottled look on the trim which looks fine over the white base coat. It may or may not be attractive and suit your tastes on a darker color. These pieces still look great -- I have had no trouble with peeling, chipping or discoloring. For further info, please contact Gordon Haines.